Bonjour, Mauritius! Au revoir, Mauritius!

Not that I was feeling any great in the morning, but I managed to motivate myself to go to the beach at 6am to see the sunrise in Mauritius one more time. We saw the sunrise, went to eat chocolate breads and all the other unhealthy things, changed and went to the reception to wait for Preetam. Who was supposed to pick us up at 7am and bring to the airport. At 7:10am we were still waiting. Despite all that we made it to the airport on time, made sure that there is no money exchange or drugstore or drinking water fountain in the terminal and sat down to wait for our flight.

The flight to Frankfurt was fairly eventless, we watched some movies, ate, left all their silverware there and arrived in Germany. Even less remarkable was the layover in Frankfurt, because all the passenger flying to the East Block were separated from the rest of the terminal and free world with border controls. In the area, we could move freely in, there were around 10 gates, great number of border control points, one newspaper stand, one convenience store with deli, few sandwich and hot dog bistros and some toilets. To go anywhere else, we would have needed to pass immigration. We thought better to leave it. 

 

Following a little photo reportage.

Pictures of the view we booked in Blue Bay: 

And the view they offered us:

The solution of the sanitary area in our Peninsula Bay hotel room deserves its own chapter in this blog. As you can see on the pictures below, the washing cabin and toilet pot are left from the entrance. It's a modern open solution, where the mentioned area has not much of a separation from the rest of the room. It also seems that the designer had forgotten to design the toilet and once it was discovered, they quickly installed the pot in the corner behind the closet and separated it with a shutter that was supposed to be locked with a magnet to the side of the closet. In reality it was more opened than closed because every time you touched it with your knee, while doing your business, it jumped open.

By the way, if they serve not the freshest lamb for dinner, the next day this kind of sanitary solution is far from convenient. 

And last morning sunrise selfie:

Bonjour, Mauritius. Who needed that lamb now.

I had some stomach ache in the night. At first I figured it'd be from overeating, but in the morning it turned out that there was rather something on the menu that didn't work well with my body. Despite that I had some breakfast - chocolate breads, raisin breads, eggs and pancakes.

In general we had planned to do nothing and that's what we did. We spent some lazy time on the beach, snorkeled (yep, even me), spent some time in toilet (one of us) and went to dinner (one of us, not the one, who was in toilet) and packed our stuff.

In the afternoon we had the only heavy rain during our vacation and for some even for us unknown reason we decided to have a walk in our village. We stopped by in the reception, where they had currency exchange rates and expressed our wish to exchange the remaining rupees for euros. It appeared that even though they had the buying rate written down, they won't give up their gold worth euros and we can either use our rupees to get wasted at the bar or fold some paper planes of them. We also asked for some Imodium to relief the digestion issues. Regrettably they were not allowed to give out medicine. On the other hand they seemed to have no concerns with creating those issues in the first place. With the same breath they informed us that there are no drugstores or currency exchange options in our village. We went out and bought some coke and beer in the only open store (and even that one wasn't actually open, they just opened it for us) in town.

As mentioned, one of us went for dinner, the other one spent the time mostly in sanitary box in our hotel room. The dinner was apparently delicious.

Bonjour, Mauritius. Blue Bay.

We woke up in our spacious and bright room. I walked to the window and looked at the ... ocean. The same sea view that wasn't supposed to be there. Yes, there was a pool and a row of palm trees in front of it, but still a lot more sea view than we would have had lying down on the floor of the previous guesthouse pushing the branches aside. The sun had just risen, we got dressed and walked to the restaurant to have breakfast. The tables were covered with piles of croissants, chocolate pastries, fruits, cakes and fairly boring beans and similar. There was also an eggmaster who made you eggs any style you wished. Omelets, scrambled, you name it, he made it. Freshly fried pancakes were on the menu as well.

Scott went back to our initially booked guesthouse to tell them that we found a new and more suitable place to stay (yesterday when we moved out the reception was already closed) and they please be so kind and refund us the money paid for the accommodation and also compensate for the hours we spent looking for new hotel instead of lazying on the beach. I had to stop by in the reception to validate our key card, where they told me that since we had to go to bed hungry yesterday (due to checking in after dinner time), they compensate it with free lunch today.

We had planned to visit the most picturesque village on the island today and right after finishing all the errands we took off direction Mahebourg. Local chicken bus took us there with 20 minutes. We walked around, looked at the nice architecture and rats running around wild at the sea shore, had some coconut water and returned to the resort.

Still full from breakfast, it was all the same time for lunch. Buffet again and piles and piles of food on tables. We filled us up even more.

After lunch we made a snorkel and beach round. "We" being sort of conditional here, since the currant was so strong that I couldn't even stand in water, not to mention floating there with the mask. I lied on the beach.

We sat some more on the balcony and looked at the fox-sized bats flying over our heads, when we noticed that they had started to set the tables for dinner. Obviously we were far from being hungry, but one can fit many sheep in one belly and so we went to the restaurant. I swear, the dessert table just keeps getting longer and more delicious every time. Anyway, I had lamb and lots of cakes, fruits and chocolate mousse.

Bonjour, Mauritius. 23 colors

We went to check-out in the morning and since we had few suggestions on improvement, we mentioned those as well (they should clean the shower cabin also behind the shower door, there shouldn't be half-eaten candies from previous guests in the middle of the floor, it would be preferred to have the mugs and glasses washed after previous guests have used them to just mention few). Anyway the manager made 8 calls after hearing our complaints and yelled at half of his team in front of us. As compensation he cancelled all our restaurant bill for 4 days and suggested that we forget that "little problem" now and part our ways as BFFs.

Since we had to move to the east coast of the island, we decided to combine it with a daytrip and at 10am there was Preetam to take us to the adventure and nature park with 23-colored earth. We booked the 500-meter ziplines and Scott also the 350-meter Nepali bridge over the forest and valley. So, he crossed the bridge, where I was able to barely take 3 steps onto it. On the zipline we both took our rides, me carefully starting from the edge of the platform and Scott running himself off.

In addition to the adrenaline the park had already mentioned 23-colored earth, 2 waterfalls, few dopey tortoises and some tailless peacocks. As a bonus we saw a dog and one chicken.

After we arrived in the park, Preetam took off with our bags and promised to be back by 2pm. Who wasn't back by 2:25pm still, was Preetam. Scott called him and already at 3pm there he was, blaming the little "latening" with traffic. Trying to make it up to us, instead of taking the shorter road to Blue Bay, he took the "Know-Preetams-Village" route and later when we asked for a supermarket stop to stock up on drinks, cheese and crackers, he took us to the most disappointing store in the neighbourhood. With the wish to help us save money, I'd guess.

We had booked a sea view room on the beach in Blue Bay and that's where Preetam dropped us off. We went to the reception, checked in, took into knowledge that the promised pool is on the other side of the road and followed the girl to our room. To get to the room, we had to go through our private terrace, which was completely dark due to having a pine tree, dense as primeval woods right in front of it. Obviously it wasn't any lighter also in the room. The girl seemed satisfied that next pleased customers are well served, when it turned out that the mentioned customers are not pleased or satisfied at all. Since I'm not used to grope in the dark, I asked directly where our sea view was. It appeared that if we crouch or better yet, lie down on the floor, we can see some from under the branches. What followed was 15 minutes of negotiations, where it became clear that they have no room with actual sea view to offer and they also can't cut down the tree.

Since our idea of spending last view days of the vacation, wasn't feeling our way in and out of the room, we went down to the beach and started to check out every house that looked even remotely like an accommodation. Most of them turned out to be private homes, but thanks to my talkative husband they all got the picture of our situation and agreed that it's unfair to sell a cave under the tree as a sea view room. The luck didn't smile at us and we went to have dinner. Tuna that was supposed to be served with garlic butter had been overcooked and instead of the garlic butter it was accompanied by melted margarine. French fries were just reheated. Scott seemed to be quite happy with his palm heart tartalette and pizza.

We weren't yet ready to give up and spend three days in the cave, so we sat down in our reception (there was no wifi in the room) and tried to find something better online. And there it was - spacious room, sea view, breakfast and dinner included and only 200 meters from us. Price slightly higher than in the current den, but Scott told me that he would rather like his wife eating happily croissants at the breakfast table rather than finding her way with the help of the flashlight. So, we beelined to the hotel, where the receptionist assured us that he has the room, but still no sea view. He even showed us the room and the view. We considered the view of the pool better than no view at all, booked the room, ran back to the first guesthouse, packed our bags and moved into our three times bigger room with balcony.

Bonjour, Mauritius. When your husband asks you to join him on a romantic walk on the beach

Also for today we didn't have any plans but relaxing, eating, lazying on the beach and by the pool.

We did all that until the afternoon and then Scott thought that we could take a walk on the beach. Should someone now think that it was a romantic pre-sunset walk, then think again. Half the time we floundered through the water, since it was high tide and once we made somewhere with a view, it turned out to be view of Port Louis industrial harbor and heavy smoke of some kind of fire. On the way back we took few pics of the aloe or something that looked like the tallest asparagus in the world and walked back to the hotel. Just before reaching the hotel, there was a full rainbow over the houses and the beach.

Watched the sunset and packed our bags.

Bonjour, Mauritius. Coral Beach

Today we had planned to do nothing. So, we were up by 6am, Scott went for a run, sat at the breakfast table by 7am and shortly after 9am were waiting for the bus to go to the capital.

 

We visited the market, walked on the waterfront, gambled some, won few euros and went to one of the 9 best coffee shops on the island to have a great coffee and cupcakes. Arriving there, it turned out that they have a great menu and only one type of cupcake, so we decided to have a decent lunch there. And had coffee. Me, that is. Walked a bit in the park and returned to the hotel. 

 

My snorkeling later, was as usual very careful :) Scott spent at least 1,5 hours in water.

Bonjour, Mauritius. I scream, you scream

Few days ago we had booked Preetam and his car for a full day south-east daytrip. We had the illusion that this way we can only visit the places we want to see and skip all the commercial stop. Well, guess again...

We were waiting in the lobby for Preetam to arrive when he was already standing in front of us in his fresh button up blue dress shirt and black leather shoes ready to hit the road. We told him where we wanted to go and where not (i.e. no shopping or anything) and hit the road to make the first stop in ... model ship workshop and store. We walked through it and were ready to get back in the car when Preetam told us that he would finish his cigarette and we can take a look in the cashmere store meanwhile. The cashmere seller, who conveniently stood next to us, started to escort us in her shop. Last moment we noticed a jewellery store across the road and to the obvious disappointment of the cashmere seller decided to go there. Being inspired by our interest in jewellery, Preetam thought that we need to visit one more, the best jewellery shop in the neighbourhood and alrady parked in front of that. We made a quick walk through it and saw a clearly disappointed Preetam while getting back in the car.

Earlier he had mentioned his friend's rum shop, with free tasting. And that we have to go there, it's free after all. We thought that we have had enough commercial stops by now and told Preetam that now we go and see the crater. Preetam agreed and turned into a parking lot of the next shop... Rum tasting, free. In a corner of souvenir and cashmere shop there was a shelf with bottles of rum, where the lady of the house with enthusiasm of a golden retriver started to pour us drinks. I tried the one with coconut. It tasted like liquid soap. We tried few more and blamed it all on Lufthansa that we can't buy any of those delicious drinks and walked out.

It seemed that Preetam gave up and took us to the crater. So, we looked at that crater and all the other great views from top of that mountain. We walked back to the parking lot, where Preetam introduced us his good friend, who, what a surprise, has a ... cashmere store. And he also sells Abercrombie & Fitch. And the prices are as good as in America (we had told Preetam earlier that it's a lot cheaper to shop in US). I told that we are delighted to meet a fair local businessman, but my closets are full of cashmere I've brought back from my numerous Nepal trips.

Next stop was the Sacred Lake, the already mentioned goal of hindu pilgrimage. Since yesterday was the last day of the festival and last hindus left the lake today morning, it looked like huge construction site and garbage pile.

Preetam was convinced that by now the tourists were starving and he knows such a special place, where we can experience the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity of eating from banana leaf, he didn't consider driving us half way back too much to take us to the mentioned restaurant. Since I've had delicious and cheap banana leaf lunch several times in Malaysia, the plan seemed good. We sat down and got the menus, which turned out to be more expensive than in the noble fine-dine eateries around here. Cheapest one was vegetable meal that did cost 20 EUR and adding chicken, fish, beef or seafood raised the prices up to 60 EUR. That moment I felt that having Marge with us on the daytrip would have saved us 40 EUR, because after taking a look at the menu, she would have told that the prices are not to our liking and we would prefer to eat in more reasonably priced place. But since by that time Preetam has left in every direction (most likely to some other area in restaurant, where he got a free meal for bringing tourists in), we didn't really have much choice, but looking what we're going to get for that 20 EUR.

As a starter we got the bana leaf with snacks - one potato samosa and two fried veggie cakes. After that the covered the banana leaf with different veggies, curries and souces - tomato sauce (the only actually good thing there), a pile of ugly mushy spinach (like rotten and melted Shrek, I didn't dare to try), squash (tasteless), grated banana curry (not too bad), beans, salad (good), pumpkin (fairly good), rice and bread. Scott also got two pieces of chicken. None of which is worth to being described any longer. Since that amazing meal also had dessert included, as the last course we got plats, covered with pappadumi, where under the pappadum sagoo was hiding - cardamom flavoured tapioca pudding. Scott, who doesn't eat jellos or puddings, quickly covered the offending dessert with the "lid" again.

We visited the twin water falls, looked how the sun created a rainbow there and saw the 7-coloured earth. By the entrance Preetam jumped out of the car, got the tickets and told that we can pay him later. Can't fool a seasoned traveller tho, so having a coffee break by the 7-colored earth, I double-checked the entrance prices in internet.

Since there are no shops or restaurants anywhere near our hotel, we on the way back stopped in a supermarket and to avoid further buffee dinners, stocked up on cheese, salami, joghurt, beer and wine and once back in the car, packed all that like proper smugglers in the backpack, so that when entering the resort they wouldn't see us carry food for a smaller village. There are signs here that no outside food or drinks allowed on hotel premises.

We asked Preetam, how much were the tickets to 7-colored earth, to which he, without batting an eye, told us that 900 rupees for two. I showed him a screenshot (well prepare, tourist, right!) that hte price for one ticket is 250 rupees and for 450 rupees there was also some rare forest and maybe few more things included. Preetam must have understood that with those cheeseparing tourists he won't make his usual profits and admitted that he must have made a mistake when buying the tickets, so it's ok, when we give him 500 rupees for two and he will go back and ask for the refund, because we never went to that forest.

We brought the food to our room, put the drinks in fridge and rushed to the beach to see the sunset.

Bonjour, Mauritius. Mystery Shoppers.

Woke up with akne like some teenager today and cursed all the bread eaten here. We went for a run and looked at those garbage piles that had appeared overnight in our beautiful, empty and clean beach. Run was followed by sunrise swim, breakfast and packing to move to the next destination.

Few days ago a local hindu gave us a lift and didn't want any money, but said that "I help you, you help me" and that he would love to bring us to Arsenal one day and bring back too. All we would have to do in the mentioned village is to visit four shops which would result in him receiving a gift from each shop. We took his number and told him that we'll be in touch. We looked at the map later and found that Arsenal is in the same direction as our next hotel, so we did let Risti, the taxi driver know that next Monday we would love to be taken to Arsenal and pretend to be crazy shoppers.

Today at 11:30am Risji picked us up and took to the first shop, where we looked all that jewellery and cashmere. Was actually pretty nice. Next shop next door. There we saw Abercrombie & Fitch, Ralph Lauren and other brand items sawn by fairly unskilled Mauritians. A tank top like beach dress by Abercrombie & Fitch had the price tag of 140 EUR, when I lifted it from the selfi, the price dropped to 70 and later to 30 EUR. We told them we'll think about it and went to the third store. Guess would be proud if they knew about all the different items sold under their label here. I tried some few-hundred dollar sunglasses on and off we went to the last shop. There it wasn't enough to just looky-looky, we had to put the chosen item on the table and promise to come back. As a bonus we put even two scarfs on the table, told the lady that we'll think, which one would be better for Scott and come back tomorrow. Risji got his four gifts (4 t-shirts), took us to the hotel and as a result of an hour  windowshopping we saved 800 rupees.

We went for a swim, one of us also snorkeling, had lunch, watched the sunset and went for dinner. It was Indian buffee today. Desserts are woth mentioning - carrot cake (if it wouldn't have been write, I would have thought the tasteless dry piece was chickpeapie), tapioca pudding with pistachio (again, based on flavour I would have thought it was rice pudding with shredded coconut) and really delicious profiterols filled with cream and covered with a layer of crunchy caramel.