neljapäev, 30. aprill 2026

Between Past and Present. In the Mountains

 























Our morning technically started the night before. Around 10pm, to be precise - when our hotel decided to host a “private party”. Even the dishes in our room were gently vibrating. Scott called reception and politely asked if they could maybe, possibly, consider turning the music down. Reception politely explained that there was a private party on the sixth floor and stopping it was apparently not on the table. Scott, however, was equally firm in his position of not wanting to listen to subwoofer-induced existential dread. Eventually, miraculously, the music was turned down. Peace was restored.


Since we had very wisely booked a tour for today, sleeping in or changing plans was not an option. At 8:20 sharp, a car was waiting outside, and with it - Avto.

Avto was enthusiastic. Extremely enthusiastic. By the time we left Tbilisi, he had already shared detailed information about everything we could see - and quite a few things we couldn’t.


Our first stop was the Tbilisi Reservoir. Think local Ülemiste järv, but upgraded: vast, calm, and a very photogenic shade of light blue. From there, we moved on to a fortress at the other end of the reservoir.


Next came one of those “nature is showing off again” moments: the meeting point of two rivers - one black, one white - that flow side by side without mixing. Apparently, they only blend once temperatures equalize. Until then, it’s a clear visual separation.


Georgia takes honey seriously. So, naturally, our tour included a honey tasting. Raspberry blossom, chestnut, rhododendron, peppermint - side by side, the differences were surprisingly obvious. We did what any reasonable people would do: bought some.


At this point, I was hungry enough so we stopped at a place called Drunk Cherry.

We were the only customers. Ordering one salad and one sausage took over 30 minutes to prepare, but the establishment made up for it by providing us with two dogs for company. Outside, it was snow on the ground, but the sun had warmed the terrace into something surprisingly pleasant. A slow lunch, but at least we weren’t alone.


Next up: the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument. Built quite a while ago and still standing strong, presumably powered by irony. Getting there involved trudging through snow, but the views were absolutely worth it - wide, dramatic, mountainous.


Eventually, we reached Kazbegi - specifically the village of Stepantsminda, with the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church built above it. Slightly less snow than the previous stop, but the views remained spectacular. And just 12 km away: Russia. Back in the village, we took a walk and had a late lunch - kharcho, khinkali, and syrniki )cottage cheese pancakes) - on a terrace overlooking the only road connecting Russia and Georgia right now. The road itself barely fit two vehicles side by side, yet an endless stream of trucks passed through the village. Logistics at its finest.


On the way back, we played a fun regional game: Will the tunnels be open?

Apparently, if the police decide to let the hundreds of waiting trucks through, the tunnels close for about two hours for the other side. Luckily, we made it through without delay. A small but meaningful victory.


At a rest stop to use toilets, I noticed a sign stating that using the toilet costs one lari. Seeing no one to pay, I proceeded anyway. On the way out, a woman appeared behind me and shouted something in Georgian. Turns out, the cashier had returned mid-visit. I handed her two lari. She then spent a solid minute looking at me, then at her change, then back at me, clearly reconsidering several life decisions. Eventually, she gave up and handed me one lari back. Honestly, I expected a follow-up with a mop to the back of the head, but no - this time, I got lucky.


About four hours later, we were back at the hotel. The plan was simple: a short walk, a quick stop at a shopping mall, a few snacks, and done. However, crossing the street in this city is a strategic operation involving tunnels every 500 meters, so we ended up walking much farther than intended.

On the bright side, we discovered a café that not only sold coffee but also drew your portrait on the cup. Unexpected. Definitely a win. A box of sweets later, we returned to the hotel.

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