Hiiumaa. In search of the Douglas Wells' rock.

Once Scott had agreed to visit Hiiumaa, he definitely also wanted to see the rock that Hiiumaa dedicated to Douglas Wells. Our host looked up the location from his book and our first stop on Sunday was near Suuremõisa o check out the rock. Since the directions we got were like looking for a knitting needle in a haystack, it turned out that to start with, we were taking apart the wrong haystack. We consulted the locals, who were walking by and almost got the right direction. Mentioned direction took as to a beach attached to the farm yard, but also there, among the lazy cows we didn't find the rock. At that moment though the farmer came out, who knew exactly, where the rock was before the new owner of the land under the rock just threw it into the woods. We drove to the mentioned house, walked through the all yard and around it, we even tried to find someone in the house since the door was very invitingly open, in the hopes that they could show us, where they store the biggest sightseeing object on the island, but nothing. We gave up and made our way to Tahkuna. We took a look at the lighthouse and memorial for the ferry that went down 1994 and from there to another pop-up cafe. Exactly between Kärdla and the harbour there was Road to Home Cafe, which promised to feed us all the possible gourmet.

We placed our order, paid and that's where all the speed ran out. From then we just waited and waited and waited. The pancakes arrived fairly quickly. Eaten and the taste of Montenegro-style pancakes (with wild strawberries and chocolate, in case someone is wondering) already forgotten when after half an hour we got our burger. 20 more minutes and we could sink our teeth into the chicken kebab. I was only glad that we didn't order lava chocolate cake, because the full hour, while waiting for the food, I could see the young guy baking those, licking his fingers with such a dedication like there was no tomorrow.

Spent some more time on Hellamaa swing area and drove (me driving!) to the harbour. My previous driving experience was several years ago, when Saskia was appr. one year old. I just in case made sure, which pedal was which and made it safe and sound to the harbour.

Hiiumaa. Cherry red lips and fried flat fish

The morning first started with removing some frost from the stove switches and turning the oven to the max after getting out from under the warm blanket and going downstairs. By the time our host arrived with omelets and half-sandwiches, the temperature near the oven had reached the numbers above freezing and we could take off the down jackets and have some breakfast.

We started our way to the west, hiked a 500-meter trail, looked for abandoned military leftovers, looked at the Kõpu lighthouse and decided to see the lower beach of Ristna. After the narrow path in forest got narrower and narrower and I started to look around for some options to turn the car around so that we wouldn't need to back out all those 15 minutes, we finally reached a small parking lot and from there after few steps through forest also the long and empty beach. Since we were on agenda, half an hour later we made our way to Ristna lighthouse, climbed up there and enjoyed the views over endless forests, sea and beaches. Apparently there's the best surfing beach in Ristna, so we thought of taking a look at those most astonishing waves of the country. We almost hit the ground of the car and instead of the waves there was only some smelling seaweed on the beach.

Since it was beyond lunch time, we drove to Kärdla to visit some pop-up cafes. We chose one, where they had fried flat fish and fish burgers on the menu. While enjoying the food, as entertainment we listened to the band dreaming of the cherry red lips of the girl. We visited the main beach and sowiet-left-over Rannapaargu, did some grocery shopping in Selver and returned to our accommodation. Because next door they had also a pop-up cafe opened. When we arrived there at 8pm, they still had some slow-baked in ground pork, fresh pickles and berry pie left. We listened a little to the band, those hipsters definitely didn't spend sleepless nights over girls with cherry red lips, but it was still nice.

Hiiumaa. Cakes and sunset picnic.

Sometime in the summer I asked Scott, if he'd like to visit one of the islands while in Estonia. And having just read the book "In Search of the Elusive Peace Corps Moment" about the adventures of Douglas Wells in Hiiumaa, he was very keen to visit the mentioned island. We got the tickets for the first weekend in August. I started to look for accommodation and since I remembered  that there's a Mändjala camping located in a beautiful pine forest, I opened their web site. Unfortunately the only two cabins with private bathrooms had already been booked and neither of us wanted to have a walk in forest to get a shower or pee. Also there was one shower per day included and if you wanted to wash yourself more, you could buy a voucher. So, I booked a cottage via AirBNB. And once I shared my disappointment over Mändjala camping with Gerli, because, you know, shared disappointment is half a disappointment, she was slightly confused and asked me, why I was looking for accommodation on Saaremaa (the neighbouring island) when we plan to go to Hiiumaa. Obviously it pays off sometimes when you're picky about hygiene.

On Friday morning we hit the road and our first stop was Puhtulaid, a little islet. Since I had been describing it as paradise on earth, it seemed fully reasonable to stop by the harbour to Saaremaa on the way to Hiiumaa. I hadn't been there for almost 10 years and I can say with confidence that the grass used to be greener and Puhtulaid more magic back in the times. We drove to Haapsalu to have lunch and walk on the beach promenade. We chose Hapsal Dietrich, we we had the best cakes ever. After having a glimpse of the cake display we even considered of covering all the courses with cakes, but went for grilled goat cheese salad and salmon and mango salad. And spent then 2 delicious minutes breathing in the chocolate-blueberry and strawberry-pistachio cakes.

We walked some more on the windy beach and made our way to the harbour. Once in Hiiumaa, we checked in to our home stay, visited the biggest grocery store in Käina, where we shopped stuff for a picnic on the beach and drove to Kassari. Walked along the Sääretirp, watching the sunset on one side and the calm lightly red sea on the other. Finally decided to sit down on the beach, had a picnic, enjoyed the views and listened to the silence.

Up North. With cherries on top.

Since the breakfast is the most important meal of the day, we started our day in the best diner in the neighbourhood. Once again we ordered a breakfast set of an average American to share and got a full tray of food: scrambled eggs, bacon, biscuit and gravy, pan-fried potatoes and a slice of orange. After all that we could still fit in a slice of a delicious cherry pie. Obviously the diner knows its power and values, because even on the web page they state that even though the waiting line might seem long, it moves pretty fast. Also the service has gotten the best speed training possible, because before we could put the last piece of potato in mouth, the waitress had already taken the dessert order and brought the empty tray to the kitchen. And while still trying to catch that last cherry on the plate, we already have the bill in hand and the nice lady had wished us a lovely day.

Our lovely day continued in Cheboygan, where based on the tourism information we expected to find a pretty beach and nice hiking trail. We had almost given up on the beach when we finally got to a parking lot and from there, past a humongous restroom and empty cafe building to the mentioned beach. Beach turned out to be a dirt covered tiny strip of sand, where when trying to do some 60-meter speed tests, one would need to run along the beach, turn around and back same way. With the hiking trail we had somewhat more luck, we had a nice walk in the woods and found a little private white sand beach, spacious enough for two persons clinging to each other to stand and enjoy the lake view.

A quick picnic and shopping on the way and home.

Up North. Today we saw Canada.

Planners like we are, we grabbed the coffee and opened Google Maps to mark down a route for the day. The bigger and more general plan was already there - to cross the famous Mackinaw Bridge and spend the day in Upper Peninsula. With a little help of Google it became clear that we will have a lot of nature, huge amount of forest, beaches and breathtaking views of forests, beaches and Canada. During the day we found out that additionally we will see some little villages called towns.

I went for a quick swim, we got dressed and made our way to the donuts joint in town. Stocked up a variety of fresh pastries and started to cross the bridge that we looked at from different angles yesterday. After the bridge there was the first sightseeing object - Castle Rock. It's a huge rock on top of a hill that offers endless views over forests, bridge and Mackinaw City. It took us over 200 steps and lot of sweat to reach those views, but luckily the views made up for all that suffering.

Next stop was a quick visit to nearest metropol, also known as Sault Ste. Marie, which is the second largest city in Upper Peninsula. One of the oldest settlements in midwest promised wow-experiences for both foodies as well as lock-cruise interested tourists. Being the superficial travellers ever, we considered it enough to take a look at the locks from the viewing platform and decided not to cruise on them. We also looked at Canada, just on the other side of the locks and went back to see some of the city. Very wisely we were on bikes to not to get some blisters on feet from all the walking in the big city. With 15 minutes we had seen everything there was to see and turned our focus to more important question - where to eat? We stepped into a coffeeshop with cool name yet boring design and were almost ready to back out again when decided to still take a look at the menu. After reading our way through about 50 sandwiches we were certain to find something suitable. Both of us ended up being happy with the choice and even my ice coffee was the real deal. Unlike few other times when I was served either black coffee with ice cubes or just soft icecream with a touch of coffee.

In order to take it easy after the meal we turned on to the first picturesque beach and spent half an hour there listening to the waves.

Since the Upper Peninsula is known for its beautiful nature, we decided to go for a little hike too. We chose a hiking path along the lake shore that promised scenic views to the ones finishing the path. We walked down the stairs and started our way through the forest. Pretty soon we started to hear the noise of the waves and our hopes got high that right there, after the next bush we get that picturesque view over white sand beach and blue lake with white waves. Dream on! Soon after we had to speed up and start trotting, otherwise the army of mosquitoes would have eaten us alive. So, we sped on that random path in the forest, looked at the map that anytime soon we will be on that triangle, where the river runs into lake and all that beauty can be enjoyed form the rustic bridge. Well, more or less. Through the last bushes we got to the bridge that was closed to crossing. Since this minor thing doesn't interfere the plans of an enthusiastic traveller, we climbed over it and took a good look at the most usual bushy river. We picked bunches of fern to keep mosquitoes away and started our run back. Somewhere around the last third of the path we met two ladies, who, ever so hopefully asked us, if they're "almost there". We told them that far from that and gave a colorful, but honest idea of what's waiting for them on the path and at the end of it, should they make it there in the first place and left them there to make the decision. Most likely they believed that we are just trying to keep them away from the most scenic private beaches of the state and kept on going. Suits them well!

Since the time started to get closer to late afternoon, we decided to skip the waterfalls and drive straight to Paradise, which also passionately promised that no foodie or nature enthusiast will leave the place without great experience. Paradise, as it turned out, was a little village with around ten houses, fish restaurant, grocery store and food truck. From the latter one we got some freshly fried white fish and Scott also a corn dog and if the crowd of travellers wouldn't have arrived, we probably would have placed an order for all the fish the dude might have had left.

To Whitefish Point or back home? Since Google Maps promised us that it will take us only 16 minutes to get there to enjoy all those delightful views of Lake Superior and the light house, we decided to pay it a visit. It's the top of a peninsula, where, yes, you can see the charming beach, Lake Superior and Canada, but the same tip is also open to all the possible winds. Also the light house was already closed and we jumped in the car to start our way back to Mackinaw City. Just before reaching the bridge there was a sign pointing us to the "Bridge View" and with tires squealing we took a right turn. The view of the bridge was really amazing.

Mackinaw City is located on the northern end of Lower Michigan and that makes it possible to enjoy both, scenic sunrises and sunsets. Right from the lake into the lake. By the hotel we jumped on the bikes and rushed to the beach. We made it there just in time to enjoy the sun setting behind the bridge, the seagulls, tourists taking selfies and finally returned to the hotel to have a light snack on the deck.

Up North. Sunrise Beach

The morning started before the rooster and the dawn, because someone had planned a working day. Once the dawn arrived, I was already standing on the beach, wine in one and camera in other hand and watched the sun rising from the horizon. Around 7am I walked down to grab a coffee from the reception and took a look at the promised pool. It was a house in the middle of the parking lot with pool and outside deck. Exactly what I'd always wished for - suntanning on the parking lot on beach chairs, breathe the exhaust gas and watch, which cars get hit by the seagulls.

After the coffee we walked to town, parked the car very conveniently and wisely right in front of the best donuts and pastry shop in the neighbourhood and stepped in to have a bite before hitting the sightseeing objects. We walked out with a huge cinnamon roll donut covered with chocolate frosting and a cherry pastry. The donut was gone like the first snow and even the fingers weren't sticky, they got so clean. The cherry pie was OK too.

First sightseeing object turned out to be  first beach on our walk, where we had a good look at the famous Mackinaw Bridge with the length of appr. 5 miles. We continued walking along the shore to the bridge. Visited the souvenir shop and walked under the bridge and then some in the town.

For the afternoon we had a bike trip on Mackinac island scheduled and like any reasonable tourist, we went to have lunch before that. We chose a brewery that had lot of positive reviews in Internet. Before we even managed to order some food, we saw on the menu that in this bar the recommended tip for service should be 8 dollars and we can also share our praise for the food and bier in sending the kitchen and service crew a round. We ordered two appetizers to share - loaded potato chips with bacon, blue cheese, chicken and sour cream and beef tacos. This type of loaded potatoes is an everyday or everymenu thing in this country - french fries are soaked in cheese sauce or nachos covered with guacamole and cheese or in this case, chips with all the mentioned. How to eat that is also nobrainer  for an average American - fingerfood (or rather hand- or elbowfood, because that's where the oil gets to) is also very common here. We weren't grateful enough to the service and kitchen staff to leave 8 dollar tip and buy drinks worth of the gun budget of North-Korea for the all crew, so after paying the bill and leaving a reasonable tip, we left and returned to the hotel. One of us had a little nap.

We arrived in the harbor, loaded ourselves and bikes on the ferry, sat down in the first row like the good students ever and stranded 15 minutes later on Mackinac island. It's a car free island, where people move around using legs, bikes or horses. Bike rental must be the main income of the island, considering that daily bike rent was 62 dollars. My old school Schwinn got several admiring looks though. We started with the east coast of the island and made first climbing stop by an arch rock, which offered breathtaking views over crystal clear turquoise water and white beaches. We chose one and biked there. The one, who grew up in a Nordic country, jumped in for a quick swim and after we had a little picnic too. We kept biking, looked at the Mackinaw bridge and noticed that the water on the west coast is way muddier. We walked up the hill and made our way back to the harbour town. From there we made a quick trip to the terrace of the Grand Hotel and enjoyed the views that the customers, who used last minute deal of 350 dollars a room, could enjoy from their windows. Watched the sunset on the beach, bought some fudge and returned to the harbour to catch the prelast ferry back to mainland.

Before coming to US this time I was sure that on 4th of July I will see the most grandiose fireworks ever, but turned out that Ann Arbor, being the University town, doesn't think much of this trifling entertainment and only few flares went up the sky, fired by residents. Today, however, right before stranding, all flares in town were fired and while sailing to the harbour and a while after we had the chance to enjoy an impressive show.